Day 17 - 21 June 2007

We left the lake wildcamp late this morning as we had a short day planned. We skirted the lake from our site on the NW corner and crossed scree slopes and boulder fields until we reached the base of the 200m scramble to the summit. We strapped the poles to our packs and climbed up to the rocky summit in around 50 minutes.
We came off the west face via a decent path that soon turned into downclimbing hell on steep wet rock and scree - good fun normally but challenging with a backpacking load on! We were both pretty battered after the 2 hour 'get off' and I had ripped my tent drybag after arse-sliding down too many gullies! Soon fixed with tape when we got into camp.
Once we had walked/scrambled down to the start of the next climb up to Rhinog Fawr, it started to rain so we made the decision to skirt the mountain and look for an easier way up it's north face.
We made up some time on fairly good paths and forest tracks and then started the climb towards the roman steps in sunshine. At the top of the pass at 440m, we planned a late lunch and a mile detour to bag Rhinog Fawr. During lunch, a downpour dampened the rocks and our enthusiasm for an hour of climbing, so we decided to descend the roman steps to our campsite at Cwm Bychan.
We knew there was a site at Cwm Bychan from the OS map but I couldn't find anything about it online. I emailed Rhys, the Visit Wales fishing guru who lives up here and he said there was a sort of campsite at the lake with an honesty box for paying the fees.
We arrived hoping for at least a toilet and a sink (Alan was hoping for a clubhouse with a selection of good ales) but found a field full of sheep shite and two portaloo's, with no running water apart from a stream and the worst midges we have encountered so far. And all this luxury at a bargain five quid a night!
Whilst researching our trip and trying to find info on this site, I found forum threads asking if anyone had stayed... I have now! My advice is stay high, take water from the many clear streams, dig a cat hole and save yourself a fiver!
Blimey, a squirrel just poked his head under my flysheet as I was typing! I just heard Alan telling it to bugger off as it was climbing up his flysheet!
Big day tomorrow over the last of the Rhinog range, skirting Llyn Trawsfynydd and then dropping down to the Vale of Ffestiniog and hopefully a fully featured campsite so we can wash before going home to our wives. Then another week back at work and then the final and best stretch of our Cambrian Way trip - the big stuff!

Duncan (Aktoman), if you are reading this up there in Scotland, what time do midges go to bed? I'm busting for a pee!