Out west – Day 1

I had a few days free a couple of weeks ago, so I packed up and went to west Wales to do some proper camping and exploring.

Cardigan was just a few miles away, so I popped into Howies.

Howies is a very smooth brand turning out some rather special clothing – their marketing is world renowned and I always look forward to their catalogues, emails or any other ‘little something’ they may send to amuse me into purchasing. Timberland acquired a chunk of them last year, but all the fears of what damage a nasty megabrand could do to them dissolved into nothing. They are still the same, but with a few more quid behind them, which is good for all involved I suppose.

I left quite a few £’s lighter with an Epic cotton waterproof jacket and a shirt I like so much I might frame it.

BTW, my favourite ever tee shirt is a ‘Howies’ and I am going to wear it until it falls to bits.

On to Boncath

I stayed at Rhydhowell Farm campsite, just outside the small village of Boncath (pronounced 'Bonkers' with a lisp) for my three nights in Pembs. I found it via the Campfires Burning website and when I emailed the chap who owns the farm and asked him if it was OK to cook on an open fire, he replied with “How else would you cook when camping!” I booked immediately.

The farm is run by John Quinn, and Englishman farming in the heart of rural Wales and a true gentleman. He has a beautiful property, dating back to the 1790’s, but he has been resident for the past 35 years. The farm is over seventy acres with a large percentage of it a stunning semi ancient wooded valley that would have the bushcraft boys sharpening their Mora’s in anticipation (don’t worry, he has plans for you!) John has set a path through the woods that makes it accessible to most who can handle a gentle stroll – he gave me a guided tour with his sheepdog Sally at his side.

The campsite is very basic, with a loo that I couldn’t use (I’m an arachnophobe) and an old static caravan that contains a sink for washing up, a decent WC and a hot shower. He has piped water into the various fields that he has set aside for campers and has fire pans dotted around for his campers to use.

I stayed in one of his ‘hideaway’ pitches – small enclosures set aside for a more private camping experience. The pitch had a fine group of Douglas Firs at one end and enough room for several tents. Sadly, the firs were just too far apart for me to hang my Clarke Jungle Hammock – a night in that will have to wait just a bit longer.

Rhydhowell is one of those sites that when you find it, you want to keep it a secret. But that wouldn’t be fair to John, who is trying his best to make a simple but beautiful campsite for those that would rather have a more natural camping experience.

Just don’t tell anyone else.

I set up the Bison Lavvu, got comfy (and I mean comfy – lots of luxuries come with me when car camping – a real bed, a fridge, rugs, chair and a gas cooker with a grill) and settled down to cook ratatouille over the fire and slug a bottle of wine while watching the flames flickering.

It was a very cold night due to the crystal clear skies and my RayWay quilt struggled to keep me warm, but l also bought my down backpacking quilt just in case. Had a damned good nights sleep.

Out west – Day 2

Today was Preseli Hills day.

As I was on my own (you need two cars) and I wasn’t sure if the local hiker’s bus was running, I decided not to walk the full 8 mile end to end route. I parked up in Crymych and quickly stomped up Foel Drygarn and then onto Carn Sian and back down to the van creating a short circular route.

Although not particularly high, the Preseli Hills have a character all of their own and the really do feel ancient and mystical. A quick bit of research will tell you that the stones from Stonehenge came from here and all sorts prehistoric remains have been found – the place is riddled with sacred sites.

I then drove to the western end of the range and climbed up to the highest point, Foel Cwmcerwyn at 536 metres past decimated forestry and a few very boggy sections. The view from the top was stupendous – I could even see the Gower peninsular. It was also obvious that this route could be extended, staying fairly high, pretty much all the way to the sea. Lots more exploring to be done another time.

I got chatting to a ‘local’ walker on the top who told me that on a clear winter’s day, you could see Snowdon and the Beacons from this summit. We stayed chatting and we spent a very pleasant couple of hours discussing everything from a love of wine to pickling chillies on the walk back down to the cars. Sorry, I never asked your name, but your old black lab’ was called Jasper I think.

Driving in this part of Wales is amusing to say the least. I saw at least two cars with no number plates or tax – one of these came screaming around a corner towards me and the driver had a large dog on his lap. He waved as he passed.

Back to camp and a fantastic meal of vegetable and paneer kebabs marinated in lemon, basil and olive oil. You can’t cook like that when you are backpacking. I phoned Sarah who was in Paris with the kids and my in-laws paying homage to Mickey Mouse and I think I was a little too pissed to hold a totally coherent conversion. I can’t remember.

Out west – Day 3

         

The day started with a stunning sunrise, a solid cooked breakfast and lots of proper coffee to shake off a minor hangover.

       

I drove out to Strumble Head to walk a section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path that my mate Tim had recommended. The weather was perfect, blue skies, turquoise seas, hot sun and tourist free roads. It was immediately obvious that something was going on. Groups of people peered over the top of huge cliffs down into shady bays – ‘twitchers’ I thought, until I heard the crazed honking of dozens of fluffy white seal pups. This was a first for me.

I walked out to Trwyn Llwyd and back and on every inaccessible beach were groups of pups with the parents lazily sloshing around in the shallows seemingly enjoying the attention of the onlookers.

I was sitting on a hot rock in blazing sun eating my lunch when a glistening white ferry left Fishguard harbour and disappeared into St Georges Channel. It reminded me of months spent on the Greek Islands when I left college. I had to remind myself that it was almost October and this was the end of one of the worst summers I could remember.

I stopped at the amazing Pwll Deri Youth Hostel perched on the cliffs under Garn Fawr and filled up my water bottle. (When I got home, it turned out that my next door neighbour’s sister-in-law was warden there for years. What a perfect place to live).

I got back to the van tired, dehydrated and footsore. Looks like my trusty Salomon’s have finally had enough with around 400 miles of rough terrain under their belts. (Just bought some new ones, with a GTX lining for the winter – no way I’m going back to boots).

Back at base was another perfect evening cooking on embers, drinking organic cider from Hereford (nearly Welsh) and listening to all manner of creatures 'doing stuff’ in the trees over my head.

The wild west

I spent a few glorious days in west Wales last week. I'm in love.

More soon.

Top Gear

Spotted this on a campsite in the Beacons recently.

I'm in love.

Pencelli Castle

I took advantage of the finest weekend of this miserable Welsh summer and took Aaron (6) for a quick Saturday night camp in the Brecon Beacons. It was really a reccy to check out a 'proper' campsite that we could use for family camping weekends.

Pencelli Castle is a family owned site at the foot of Pen-y-fan, on the road between Brecon and Talybont on Usk. It's the site of a real castle, built around 1080 A.D. although no evidence of remains apart from the moat.

The site has three areas - The 'Orchard' and the 'Oaks' are set up for caravans and those campers that need electricity and furthest from the facilities (more about those in a minute) is the magnificent 'Meadow'.

The Meadow is reserved solely for tents and is a very large gently sloping and perfectly manicured field surrounded by trees and broken up by conservation areas of un-mown grass, trees and shrubs. At the bottom of the field runs the Brecon and Monmouthshire Canal.

I'm not one to get excited by campsite facilities, I'm happy with a clean stream and a place to dig a cathole, but when you have a family in tow, good toilets and showers make for a much nicer experience. The accolades these guys have collected are pretty impressive, they are Visit Wales 5 Star rated, have won every 'Loo of the Year' award since the 12th century, have won several Campsite of the Year awards and a few Wales in Bloom awards for the attractive landscaping and floral touches (all the waste and water areas have a trellis surround with climbing roses hiding the plastic bins).

We set up camp in a quiet but very soggy area of the Meadow. Although the weekend was hot and sunny, the ground was very waterlogged and some areas of the closely cut lawns looked more like Ypres than South Wales. Quite a few people were getting stuck, making the ruts and mud even worse, but we had big tyres and 4WD and this combo didn't make the slightest impression on the ground.

At around lunchtime, Aaron said he couldn't eat his lunch because his loose front tooth had turned around and was facing the wrong way. After a few minutes, he plucked up the courage and let me pull it out - he must have been pretty hungry!

We cooked on the Grilliput and our Cadac Safari Chef combo and slept comfortably on a big fat airbed. As the meadow was 'the scene of many a bloody battle', we expected a disturbed night, but it was pretty uneventful apart from Aaron managing to wriggle out of his sleeping bag and waking in the early hours shivering.

Next morning, we checked out the facilities and showered to piped classical music. They also have family bathrooms, the usual washing up and food prep areas, laundry, drying room and an information room full of stuff to help you make the most of your time there. There is a funky little play area and a red deer enclosure for the kids. Everything is immaculate, even the bike and boot wash areas.

All of this loveliness comes at a price though - some quick mental arithmetic  - £35.00 a night for Sarah, myself and the three boys. That is pretty steep for a campsite IMHO (It looks like that is pretty average after all - see comments). But it can't be cheap maintaining Pencelli Castle to such high standards and I didn't see an Aston Martin parked in the owners driveway.

We packed up after lunch and went for a stroll along the canal to Talybont on Usk (good pubs and food) and then drove the long way home up through the mountains via Talybont Reservoir, Taf Fechan and Pontsticill. We stopped for a Miss Whippy (ice cream ;) and watched the Brecon Mountain Railway steam engine puff through the hills.

One last stop off to walk across the 92 foot high Pontsarn viaduct just north of Merthyr Tydfil and it was onto the Heads of the Valleys road and back to sunny Swansea to dry out the dew soaked tent.

Wonderful weekend :)

Soulpads

I came across these guys when I was researching the Lavvu and again recently when I was reading the glamping bible, 'The Happy Campers'.

If you are going to car camp with your family, take a look at their tents, stoves and general hippy dippyness.

With 4 metre canvas bell tents (sorry, Soulpad) starting at around £250, you can be the envy of the campsite/festival wherever you go.

They have a lightweight version that the bushcraft community are apparently starting to get interested in, weighing in at a svelte 31 lbs ;)

The one issue I have with cotton/canvas tents is that when it rains on packing-up-camp day (and it always does), they are a bugger to dry out and will start to rot within moments of throwing them in the boot of the car. Soulpad recommend pitching your wet tent as soon as you get home and leaving it up until you have a sunny day.

Could be up for a while then.

 

Anyway, I want one :)

The ultimate (car) camping BBQ?

The Bon-Fire barbeque set-up is just perfect! Beautifully made, Danish design and very 'pioneer'. This will be great when we camp with the Lavvu.

A heavy steel tripod holds a brazier / fire pan off the ground. There are three chains that hang from the legs that hold either a large stainless steel grill or a huge skillet / Paella style pan. From the top of the tripod comes another chain attached to a rotating handle and from this hangs a 6 litre enamelled stew pot (filled with Fasolia Yahni - Greek Bean Stew, in this photo)

But that's not all... there is a long handled pancake pan with... wait for it... a popcorn attachment. The kids love it. Lastly, it comes with an array of terrifying BBQ utensils, that look like tools for killing the cow as well as cooking it.

You can use firewood, lump charcoal or briquettes. I love this so much!

We tried it in the garden tonight - a practice run - just in case August should throw up two dry days in a row and we can go camping.

This set up is called the Bon-fire Complete Deluxe Package if you are tempted. Check out their gear at www.bon-fire.dk

Grandpa's Toasting Fork

I see Bob has the Light my Fire toasting forks in stock for only £3.99.

They just clip onto a stick and are great for open fire cooking.

I have one for each member of my family, they are great fun, especially for BBQ's when the embers are dying down and you can load them with four marshmallows.

Go get some now.

While you're there, grab a couple of tubes of the Gehwol foot cream. Rub it on your feet and between your toes before a hike and sore points and blisters will be a thing of the past. I didn't even get a hot spot on the Cambrian Way last year and put it all down to this cream.

Dutch Oven

When we camped in the woods last year, I made some Beer Bread in a Dutch Oven and it went down really well. It is basically four cups wholemeal bread flour, salt, sugar, herbs, garlic, dried toms and any other fancy stuff you fancy - then you just pour in a 500ml bottle of real ale, mix it all up and leave it for half an hour before popping it in the Dutch Oven and placing it in the embers for another half an hour. (It works well in a regular oven too)

The yeast in the beer does enough work to make the bread pretty light - the flavour is out of this world.

Today, I practiced a recipe for a Peach Cobbler that is perfect for camping as it's so easy. You need any white cake mix, a can of lemonade and 2 tins of peach slices. Dump the cake mix and drained peaches in the pot, give it a stir and then add lemonade until the consistency is about right. Pop it on the embers for half an hour.

We had it with ice cream for dessert this evening.

Introducing the amazing Shit Box

You have just got to see this and it it British. Great website too.

"The Shit Box is a lightweight portable cardboard toilet made specifically for outdoor use"

One of these and a poncho tarp and you are set up for a 'scenic' anywhere.

Buy one now, these guys deserve success.

Bison Tundra 8 - a closer look

I have had the chance to take a much closer look at the lavvu now and I am pretty pleased. The quality is so good that I wonder how much better the equivalent Tentipi can be for another £600, I have heard they are fantastic, although I have never seen one... but I do wonder!

I have taken a pile of detail shots as I had real trouble finding decent photographs when I was researching this purchase. Double click on any of them for a good size image.

There are not many Tundra 8's in the country at the moment and apparently they take an age to come from Norway. I purchased it from Point Bar Wilderness and had to order the Bison wood burning stove and groundsheet from Mad Bear (40 day wait). The stove means I'll be able to take the boys camping later in the year too.

Point Bar Wilderness have been great, offering lots of after sales advice and hints and tips, and Mad Bear have been incredibly helpful too. They are both active on BCUK.

A couple of things pissed me off a bit, I had to re-tie all of the guys as they must have been hanked and then tied to the tent in the factory and were badly twisted. The other thing was the guy runners were plastic, not alloy/metal. No excuse on a tent of this price point and quality. I don't want one of those breaking on me on a windy night, because this thing could easily turn into a full sized parachute.

Oh yeah, I have to waterproof it too, but that is to be expected on a cotton tent.

It is a great tent to sleep in, not a drop of condensation even though we didn't use a full groundsheet and it was cool and comfortable all night. I am really pleased and looking forward to our first weekend in it :)

 

The door opens to two panels...

...or just a single panel.

Everything is very well put together.

The horrible hanked guys and those plastic runners.

Double mosquito doors.

Storm flaps all around.

Looking up with the top cap in place. This comes off if you use a firebox or the chimney of a stove slots through a special slit.

Decent chunky zippers.

Good quality tensioning straps all around.

Simple door tie backs.

Logo screen printed, not a sewn on patch.

Those straps again.

The roof cap. The guys at Point Bar suggested removing half of these and tying them to the guys to make them stand away from the tent (and stop contact leakage points).

Huge, solid un-bendable pegs (but no spares - shame)

View from inside.

Drying time.

Drying time.

I am assuming these loops are for drying/airing?

The tension strap buckles are just the right size. Have I got this wrong?

Cap off, light pouring in (and rain too if you are not careful).

 

Hope this is useful to someone :) Let me know if it is.

Chris

Bison Tundra 8

First pitch and first night for me and my two eldest boys.

Smelt like the Icelandic's from Scout Camp almost 30 years ago. Great memories came flooding back.

First impressions of the tent are wonderful!

More later.

That's what I call a tent!

Three of us took up about a quarter of the floor space.

Three Thermarests (Two 3/4, one full) so you can get a sense of scale.

Excitement

I have just ordered a BisonTelt Tundra 8. A 5 metre diameter Lavvu.

Can't wait!