This time last year

On the 1st of July 2007, Alan, myself and Pete started the last leg of our Cambrian Way adventure, leaving Maentwrog and crossing the Moelwyns via Cnicht and dropping into the fleshpots of Beddgelert for the night.

This last week was about the same time a Sheffield went under water along with most of the UK. Pretty wet.

 

Here is how the day went...

Had an absolutely filthy day crossing the Moelwyns today. We had planned to camp wild a few miles short of Cnicht and tomorrow, climb Cnicht and then drop down to Beddgelert.
We had pretty heavy rain and gusting winds that actually knocked poor (skinny) Pete off his feet a couple of times. We decided to skirt Moelwym Mawr and drop down the pass just north of the 770m peak.
I haven't seen weather like that since Cairngorm about 20 years ago!
Once we dropped out of the cloud the waterproofs came off and we have not had rain since.
We are in the fantastic FE campsite in Beddgelert and my tuna spog' is in the cozy, we have tumble driers on site and the world is a better place.
We are now a day ahead of schedule, so we are going to explore the Aberglaslyn Pass tomorrow and have a day hiking around the area around the town.
Pete had a bit of a tough 1st day - I had totally forgotten about aching shoulders!

You can take a look at our trip here. I have now started getting the photos together and will slowly start popping them into the blog entries. May be useful for others who are panning to walk the Cambrian Way.

Rowan Youth Hostel

I was just flicking through last summer's Cambrian Way photos and found this classic shot of Pete putting his Leki's to good use.

If any of you have ever climbed up to Rowan YHA (SH 74660 72082) at the end of a long day, you'll know exactly how he feels!

Take a look at that little arrow painted on the wall... notice how it points upwards?

Angela- what shall we do?

Pete still hasn't come back from the spa...!

We did it!

We made it! Glorious sunshine into Conwy. Been in the sauna to sooth the limbs, Pete is still having a massage while Al and I are having a well earned drink.
More soon, now is celebration time!

Betws sunshine

We thought we would have a day in Betws y Coed because the weather was bad. It is now sunny and we are surrounded by tourists drinking coffee waiting for the bus to take us back to Ogwen.

We could be half way up Tryfan by now. How can the Met office get it sooooo wrong!

Day 22 - 4th July 2007

After a great night in the PYG hotel, we left in heavy rain (forecast looks grim for rest of trip).
From Pen y Pass, we climbed up the 'Red Dot' path through bogs, gulleys, scree and boulder fields in gusting wind and heavy showers to reach the summit of Glyder Fawr (999m).
At the top, we sheltered behind a rock the size of a small house and ate a hasty lunch. With the 40-50mph winds, it was 3 degrees at the top and horizontal rain felt like bee stings!
We abandoned the idea of a crossing of the Glyders and Al said he would take us down the Devils Kitchen and into Cwm Idwal.
What a fantastic afternoon! The Kitchen was everything North Wales should be... Views, exciting paths, tricky sections and plenty of 'stop and think' moments.
With the wet weather, the 700 metre descent took a good while, but every second was great fun - even the bits when our heavy/large packs got snagged when downclimbing sections! Luckily, we left the 40mph winds at Llyn y Cwn at the top of the Kitchen.
We arrived at Idwal Cottage, the oldest youth hostel in the UK at about 4.30pm and after filling the drying room with almost everthing we had with us, we got showered, fed and Al and Pete started working through the extensive list of local bottled ales Idwal have for sale and I fancied a break from the beer and had a rather nice organic white from Spain.

It was quite a late night planning what we are going to do next. Our 3 day crossing of the Carneddau is going to need a rethink in this weather - I am working on a lower level route as a wildcamp on Carnedd Llewelyn would be horrendous! Then again, the sun might shine tomorrow ;)

Maybe not!

Day 21 - 3rd July 2007

I knew when I woke up that I would'nt get over Snowdon today, so we had a quick meeting outside the shower block and decided that Al would take Pete (never climbed it before) over Snowdon using Rhydd Du and the Pyg Track and I would do an 8 mile road hike along the A498 to the PYG Hotel.

I was pretty disappointed to miss Snowdon, the high point of our trip, but I have been up before and I would rather have my knee rested for the Glyders, which, together with Cadair, are the points on the walk I have been most looking forward to.

I said goodbye to the guys at around 10am, stopped in Beddgelert to buy some ibuprofen and phone Sarah, then marched to the hotel along what must be one of the most picturesque A roads in the country. The weather was fine all the way but I could see by the black swirling cloud 3000 feet above me, that the guys would be having a tougher time.

I got to the most famous mountaineering hotel in the country at about 1pm (too much history to go into here, but the signatures on the bar ceiling read like a who's who of the climbing world) and had a long hot bath in the best bath I have ever seen! I am 6 ft and I could stretch out. Its Victorian with and amazing shower / spray mechanism. I'll get a photo up when I get back., I had a quick pint then set off up Pen y Pass and the Pyg Track to meet the guys.

I met them just below the ridge and they had had a pretty good crossing. It was a bit blowy on Clogwyn Du and Bwlch Main, but Pete didn't get blown away! It's a shame he didn't have views, but tomorrow, on the Glyders, the forecast is for higher cloud base. We are up along the ridge and then dropping down the 'back' of Tryfan to Ogwen Cottage YH.

I can use my knee to climb as long as I munch some 'profen and don't lead with it on steppy sections and scrambles.

Could be worse!

Day 20

Bit of a bugger - slipped crossing the campsite and twisted my 'bad' knee. Pretty sore.
Stayed in Beddgelert today as we are a day ahead of ourselves. We had a late breakfast / early lunch in an expensive little cafe trying to be a bistro (Al's bread and butter was about 3mm thick!), then went to see Gelerts grave - Gelert was a poor dog that got a pretty bum deal - google it and you'll see what I mean. We walked the fishermans path down the Pass of Aberglaslyn with the river howling past just a few feet away from the via ferrata like hand and footholds. Didn't do my knee much good!
We walked the 1.5 miles back to the site, cleaned up and took a 50p bus ride back to town for some grub and a couple of pints of pretty average beer.
We left the pub at about 10, just in time for the rain and a bus came around the corner and picked up 3 damp and tired guys just a little worse for wear and deposited us at the gate of our site. Lovely!
We made a few 'plan B's' before we hit the sleeping bags - alternative routes were prepared for bad weather / kneesn etc.

Day 19, 1st July 2007

Had an absolutely filthy day crossing the Moelwyns today. We had planned to camp wild a few miles short of Cnicht and tomorrow, climb Cnicht and then drop down to Beddgelert.
We had pretty heavy rain and gusting winds that actually knocked poor (skinny) Pete off his feet a couple of times. We dedided to skirt Moelwym Mawr and drop down the pass just north of the 770m peak.
I haven't seen weather like that since Cairngorm about 20 years ago!
Once we dropped out of the cloud the waterproofs came off and we have not had rain since.
We are in the fantastic FE campsite in Beddgelert and my tuna spog' is in the cozy, we have tumble driers on site and the world is a better place.
We are now a day ahead of schedule, so we are going to explore the Aberglaslyn Pass tomorrow and have a day hiking around the area around the town.
Pete had a bit of a tough 1st day - I had totally forgotten about aching shoulders!

Day 18 - 22nd June - back to civilisation!

I am sitting on the train in Harlech waiting for the single track ahead to clear. The castle is looming above the station, apparently, Edward 1 built a few to keep the Welsh in!

After the midge horror that was Cwm Bychan, we climbed for a while in hot sunshine to the base of Clip.
We had decided the night before that if the promised storms came, we would use our low level escape route off the Rhinogs which would mean a few hours of boring farm tracks and roads.
Once we reached the pass, the weather was looking good so we started the scramble up through a rocky stream/path/wall and it started to rain! We are both wearing Salomon trail running shoes for this trip and they are great on some kinds of wet rock and like roller skates on other. The climbing is ok but descending in wet conditions is slow and slippery.
We got to the top of the ridge and had a fantastic couple of hours of sunshine and showers with the best views yet of next weeks trip, with Snowdon and the terrifying Crib Goch in full veiw lit up in the afternoon sun.
We had a long tricky walk off the Rhinogs through some very wet marshland, across the nuclear powerstation dam (didn't make water here, although I am sure my new filter can cope with radiation) and through some horrible FE forests with gloopy paths and fallen trees.
We arrive at our campsite to brilliant blue skies and warm evening sunshine and pumped 20p pieces into the shower to wash off 3 days of Rhinog muck and sweat.
We hobbled a mile down the road to the village pub and had dinner and a few pints of Old Empire (5.7). Next thing we knew, it was time to get up and catch a bus to Portmadoc.

This has been a very tough week. Over to Cadairistic, then up it twice, the 3 days crossing the Rhinogs. The Rhinogs must be the wildest range in Wales, they are not huge when compared to the mountains of the north, but it is one of the few places in Wales that can give you a true wilderness experience - you make up your own paths, you don't see a soul for days and there is a suprise around every corner and over ever summit. We will definately be coming back for a more leisurely visit.

We have both coped well, although we are more tired than when we completed last weeks stretch (even though it was 30 miles less). My feet are in a bit of a state through being damp for a week (although the weather was very kind to us again, the ground underfoot was rather moist!). I am going to bring my Crocs next week for the evenings to give my feet a chance to dry - I am now strong enough to cope with the extra weight! Oh, and a pee bottle and teeth cleaning chewing gum for midgey nights.

Thanks to Matt and the guys at work for keeping everything running as smoothly as ever. Thanks to Jackie and Sarah for letting us do this. Only one more week and we'll be back under your feet again!

Back to work for a week and then back up to complete our Cambrian way - Porthmadoc to Conwy via some of the best mountains in the world.

Day 17 - 21 June 2007

We left the lake wildcamp late this morning as we had a short day planned. We skirted the lake from our site on the NW corner and crossed scree slopes and boulder fields until we reached the base of the 200m scramble to the summit. We strapped the poles to our packs and climbed up to the rocky summit in around 50 minutes.
We came off the west face via a decent path that soon turned into downclimbing hell on steep wet rock and scree - good fun normally but challenging with a backpacking load on! We were both pretty battered after the 2 hour 'get off' and I had ripped my tent drybag after arse-sliding down too many gullies! Soon fixed with tape when we got into camp.
Once we had walked/scrambled down to the start of the next climb up to Rhinog Fawr, it started to rain so we made the decision to skirt the mountain and look for an easier way up it's north face.
We made up some time on fairly good paths and forest tracks and then started the climb towards the roman steps in sunshine. At the top of the pass at 440m, we planned a late lunch and a mile detour to bag Rhinog Fawr. During lunch, a downpour dampened the rocks and our enthusiasm for an hour of climbing, so we decided to descend the roman steps to our campsite at Cwm Bychan.
We knew there was a site at Cwm Bychan from the OS map but I couldn't find anything about it online. I emailed Rhys, the Visit Wales fishing guru who lives up here and he said there was a sort of campsite at the lake with an honesty box for paying the fees.
We arrived hoping for at least a toilet and a sink (Alan was hoping for a clubhouse with a selection of good ales) but found a field full of sheep shite and two portaloo's, with no running water apart from a stream and the worst midges we have encountered so far. And all this luxury at a bargain five quid a night!
Whilst researching our trip and trying to find info on this site, I found forum threads asking if anyone had stayed... I have now! My advice is stay high, take water from the many clear streams, dig a cat hole and save yourself a fiver!
Blimey, a squirrel just poked his head under my flysheet as I was typing! I just heard Alan telling it to bugger off as it was climbing up his flysheet!
Big day tomorrow over the last of the Rhinog range, skirting Llyn Trawsfynydd and then dropping down to the Vale of Ffestiniog and hopefully a fully featured campsite so we can wash before going home to our wives. Then another week back at work and then the final and best stretch of our Cambrian Way trip - the big stuff!

Duncan (Aktoman), if you are reading this up there in Scotland, what time do midges go to bed? I'm busting for a pee!

Day 16 - 20th June - Rhinog Fach

Had another brilliant day, abot 10 miles and 3300 ft, from Barmouth to the base of Rhinog Fach.
It was pretty windy as we climbed out of town, but the weather was perfect again. Once at about 2000 feet, we could see for miles, including the first ever Welsh hill I climbed...

Mum and dad took us all to Blackrock Sands when I was about 8 and bought us all a pair of red and blue canvas walking boots. We all climbed the 'mountain' behind the beach, which is only a few hundred feet, but it seemed like Everest to a young lad from flattest Kent!
Thanks ma and pa - I'm back, over 30 years later - look what you started! When we get to Porthmadoc, I'll have one of 'those' ice creams and think of you!

We carried on along the ridge towards the Rhinogs (lots of up and downs). We were watching the weather come in from the south and all of a sudden, a downpour replaced the light showers and sunny spells. We put on the 'proofs and marched the last 2 hours, knocking off another couple of 2000 footers in zero viz.
We topped out our last climb before our planned wildcamp next to the lake below Rhinog Fach and the cloud blew off and the sun shone until sunset allowing us to pitch and dry our kit in the most perfect spot ever, I'll get some photos up when I get back. Money couldn't buy this experience.
Today was everything I love about backpacking as opposed to day hiking. We were 'forced' onto the hills on a day you would normally stay at home, and you see weather situations and experience dramatic conditions that make a complete mountain experience.
Just spoke to Sarah, missing them all again - I am a crap adventurer! Had a great home dehydrated meal, eaten out of a freezer bag with the titanium spoon I saved from certain death yesterday - prawm jumbalaya.
All kit is great including the new water filter and the Montbell down jacket that Tak got for me when she was in Japan last week. The Z55 is so comfy that I forget I have 30lbs on my back.
Al is going great guns - I hope I can walk as well as him when I'm 72!
Night, night, got to get some sleep as we are (hopefully - depending on some thundery showers that the met office say are coming) going to climb Rhinog Fach and Fawr tomorrow and have another wildcamp above a decomissioned nuclear station!

Day 15 - 19th June 2007

Feeling a little fragile after a good night in the Minfford Hotel, we reclimbed Cadair (this time, with full packs), the same rote as yesterday but this time in clear skies and a warm wind (that kept the damned midges away).
The views were amazing from the tops and we had lunch perched out of the wind on the 811m saddle above the Pony Path with views of the 1 mile Barmouth footbridge that we would need to cross later that day. My ultralight titanium spoon blew away and settled on a rock above a 1000 foot drop. I crawled on my stomach to save it. Maybe I'll ask Bob to source a weight to attach to the spoon to stop it floating off.
Alan has a rather eccentric taste in trail mix - the usual GORP but with added choc chips, cheese biscuits and liquorice. He's on his own!
We walked down the rather boring Pony Path and crossed over to the Barmouth 1 mile footbridge (70p toll) across the very windy estuary.
Barmouth was an odd mix of tasteful and utter tat (but had the best toy shop I have ever seen - remote control everything and crossbows, catapults and loads of other dangerous looking lads stuff), but our hotel was at the posh end (a Victorian 'castle' with loads of original features, like leaks!) and Al had his usual steak with several pints and I had seabass and a good bottle of Kiwi Sauv' Blanc.
I love roughing it!
Weather was good again, Sarah says its been awful in Swansea and everyone is feeling sorry for us!

Day 13 - 17th June 2007

EPIC DAY!
As I woke, I heard rain pattering on the flysheet but once we had dragged ourselves out of our bags, the drizzle had stopped and we managed to have breakfast and strike in the dry.
We walked out of Dinas Mawddwy on the A470 and then took a damp path through a steaming forest up to about 350m - all on steps cut into the hill. It was so humid we were drenched by the time we exited the forest onto a tricky traverse around Foel Dinas.
We climbed up to Maesglase then a couple of tough up and down and up again's to the magnificent Waun-oer(670m).
What a magnificent view... Close you eyes, face south and imagine...
In the far, far distance, the Beacons range, barely visible, then Plymlimon and then the Cemmaes windmills, passed last week. Turn 180 degrees and see Trawsfynydd nuclear power station with Snowdon towering in the distance. Turn a few degrees west and see the whole of the Rhinogs range spread out like a 3D map. Another few degrees and there is Cadair Idris...wow! A bit more and the seaside town of Tywyn, then miles of sunny sea then Aber' then the Beacons pop into view again.
After picking my jaw off the floor, we marched down to the Minfford Hotel into the safe hands of Michelle, a lovely gal from oop narth who's hubby was in 'ospikkle recovering from an operation. We were treated like lords. If you want to climb Cadairistic, stay there, eat and drink there, it is the best.

Day 14 - Cadairistic

Had a rest day today so we climbed Cadair Idris via the Minfford path.
We set off at around 11am after a breakfast that had the calorific value of the rest of our trip. We climbed up a well maintained and sustainable path (top job, path building chaps), hitting cloudbase at around 2000 feet.
My fear of heights was not evident as I could stand on the edge if a 1000 foot abys and not see further than 30 feet.
We summited at 2900 feet and the rain came down for an hour - at least we had the chance to try out our new Berghuas Paclite gear (OK, but my Montane Atomic trousers were far less sweaty). Tried out the sealskin merino socks with our Salomon shoes - result! I will never wear boots in the wet again.
After some creative navigation, we took the wrong 'path' off the hill and ended up heatherbashing for a couple of miles, including a near verticle 'ice' climb of 100 or so feet through wet heather, above a nasty looking drop, using our pacerpoles as ice axes and our toenails as crampons.
We made it back drank a large percentage of the small Minfford Hotel bar while being entertained by a 2nd hand caravan salesman and his wife from the north of England - lovely folks, but reminded me of a several Harry Enfield charaters.
Tomorrow - same route up Cadairistic, but veering off to Barmouth.
Again, treated like lords at the Minfford Hotel. Darren, the chef, heard I was a veggie and knocked me up a mush' strog' to die for. Come and stay here, service like this is blinkin' rare.

Live from Cadair Idris

Live blogging from the summit of Penygadair (2900 ft). Hit cloud at about 2000 ft but had a dry walk up. Had lunch in summit shelter and a rain shower has just started - first of the trip!
On with the Goretex and back down via Mynydd Moel to a good hot bath.

Mike: Cadairistic is brilliant!

Hope you all enjoying Monday in work ;)

Relaxing

I am lying in my Akto, reading TGO and looking out at the big hills we need to climb tomorrow.

We had an interesting train journey full of excited families from the Midlands on the way to the fleshpots of the north Wales coast. Does anyone recall Vic and Bob's 'Slade' sketches?

We are just about to go for a couple of pints of Rev James and some food in the Red Lion here in Dinas Mawthwy. Last time we were here, the pub was bouncing due to a birthday party. Hope someone else in the village has a reason to celebrate tonight!

Had a lovely early Fathers Day suprise from Sarah and the boys (and the bump) yesterday - the 50th Anniversary set of Wainwrights books. I have never looked at them before. As a designer, I find them fascinating - so much detailed so well presented. I am looking forward to reading them before our family holiday in the Lakes in August.

Thanks guys!

Sheep Rescue

Just a little heroism from the hills above the Dovey Valley last week. Al rescued two stupid sheep in as many days - one got stuck in a stream and this daft beast tried to escape across a cattle grid. The remarkable thing was that three of his wooly buddies actually made it across!

Back to the real world

After a stunning week walking up through mid Wales, we are now back in work for five days before we start again, this time, just below Cadair Idris, for another 7 days.

Over the next few days, I'll add some photos and additional copy and comments in blue so you don't have to read the same stuff over again!

I am off to see my GP this afternoon with a horrible looking tick bite. After all of the recent talk about Lyme Disease, better safe than sorry I suppose.

A new filter has been ordered, all the kit has been cleaned and aired and the food prep starts again tonight. The gear and food worked faultlessly (apart from the filter), but I'll see how it all copes after the next 2 weeks.

One last thing... a very kind chap called Ben from the US BPL forum kindly agreed to purchase and send me a couple of Simblissity wallets (Simblissity don't ship to the UK). The wallets arrived safely today - Ben, thanks soooo much, your kindness is appreciated and the wallets are perfect. Let me know if I can return the favour.

Day 12

Dunnit!
Now a week back in work and then on the trail again. I'll fill in the details and get some pic's up when we get home. Right now I have beer to drink!

Days 10-11, 6-7 June

Had a couple of long days from devils bridge to mach'. We are in great shape for a couple of old's after a week on the hills but our feet are hurting like hell!
We left devils bridge after a great breakfast and had an 11 mile day planned, but we pushed on to 16 miles (9 ish PM) to try and make up some time as Fri was looking hectic with 17 miles and 3338 feet to cover before closing time.
We came off Plynlimon (a fantastic hill) and had a great (but midgy) wild camp just outside Dylife.
Today, we pushed on to Commins Coch and caught a bus into Mach' and are spending an evening in the Wynnstay Hotel. We had an excellent meal including squid and scallops to die for (the chef deserves a knighthood) and too many pints of Rev James.
My MSR Sweetwater filter failed today ( piece of utter crap ) after only 50ish litres. It came first in a 'Trail' test. I am going to have to order a real filter rather sharpish for our next leg. Katadyn I think. MSR - stick to stoves.
All other kit is awesome - I'll write a bit more once back home and have a real keyboard.

BTW - excuse speelling mistakes over the past few days, I don' think blackberrys have a spellchecker:)

Day 9 - Tues 5th June

Wandered into Devils Bridge at 6.15pm after a hot, sunny day from our camp in Teifi Pools.

The day started with several miiles of heather bashing across stunning mountains being buzzed by military jets flying the valleys. We had lunch under cloudless skies with our feet in the river and then decended, asceded and decended again into Devils Bridge.

We showered and washed the salt out of our clothes and went for dinner and a few pints in the Hafod Hotel.

All of a sudden, Nick Crane walked by, complete with bamboo handled brolly, being followed by an 8 strong film crew. He was staying in the hotel for a few days - not sure what he was filming though, the hotel barman was clueless.

My feet are killing but everything else is working well! We are on Plynlimon for a couple of wildcamps for the next couple of days. Big miles and big ascents. We hit the 100 mile mark sometime today, only 140 to go!

Midges out in force (ahhhh), headnet on to go for a pee and then dive into the sanctuary of the Akto.

Missing Sarah and the boys. Hi mum and dad - I'm fine and still alive (just)!

Day 8 - Mon 4th June

At the moment I am in my sleeping bag watching an awesome sunset over Teifi Pools (1500 ft).

We have had a long day (14 miles, 2400 feet of upwardness). We are both a bit sore and I'm a little dehydrated after a very hot day.

We left Ty'n Cornel after being treated to toast, homemade marmalade and fruit salad by our wonderful wardens, Paula and Peter. They even supplied us with a good red wine for our wild camp - two of the best!

Feeling good at the moment, day three is always better tha day 1 and 2. Getting used to the pack weight and gear. Pacerpoles now feel part of me.

This is the best wildcamping spot I have stayed in for years. I love the Cambrian Way, it is everything I expected and some.

Right, couple of ibuprofen and off to sleep. Tomorrow, Devils Bridge and a few good pints.

Day 7

A tough 11 miles up the spectacular Doethie Valley. Thank god no one knows about it - we didn't see a soul all day. I hope Tom Hutton doesn't tell the Trail readership about it.
Just arrived at the hostel, hasn't changed since we were here about 8 years ago! The yha sold it and Elenydd Wilderness Trust purchased it to save it for future generations. The wardens, a lovely retired couple from Dorset who's son belongs to the Trust, treated us very well... Like house guests in fact! A long way from the old days when you had to do a chore before you left.
Still no mobile signal so these posts will all hit at once.
The packs are bloody heavy but get lighter by a couple of pounds every day. We are going to be supermen when we get back.
We have a 14 mile day tomorrow, up to a wildcamp - more tomorrow.

Day 6(b)

Arrived in Llandovery at 3pm, grabbed a sandwich and had a pleasant lane hike to Rhandirmywn. We stayed in the camping and caravan club site (an old fave of ours). It's a real shame as they are turning half the site into holiday chalets.
Again, we saw several red kites during today's 7 miles.
We spent a very pleasant evening in the Royal Oak sampling several excellently kept ales and had a slap up meal to fuel us for tomorrows 11 miles up thew Doethie Valley to Ty'n Cornel YHA.

The reality of 'The Pipe'

We have bumped into the pipeline a few times on our trip so far, we have had to cross it twice, once dodging trucks bigger than my house. I'll make no comment on the why's and wherefores, there are plenty of folk doing that already.

It breaks my heart to see this running through MY national park. How the bloody hell did that happen?

Minus bloody two

It'll soon be June, we are leaving in a few days, my sleeping bag is rated zero (pretty safe for June you would think) and they are forecasting minus two tomorrow night.

June looked so good statistically!

C2C Days 4 & 5 - the first wild camp

Last weekend, we completed the first overnighter of our Welsh C2C trip. Saturday was a nine mile stretch (2300 feet of ascent) from Glanaman to a wild camp on Foel Fraith then an 8 mile haul (another 1100 feet upwards) to Llanddeusant (and a bit further to the pub).

It was the first time we had used all of the new kit in anger. Alan cheated and didn't bring everything he is going to take on the main trip and then boasted about how light his pack was. Bad man.

Saturday's walk was blustery with a few short showers around lunchtime, then the wind dropped developing into a beautiful still evening with clear skies (read cold). We found a great camp site big enough to hold 50 Akto's, let alone our three on the terraces of an old limestone quarry - the sort with immaculately manicured bowling green grass thanks to the local sheep population. The forecast had predicted a 3 degree night and by 9.00pm it was rapidly approaching 6 degrees, so after very succesful FBC meals (Fish Risotto - thanks Stef - aka BG!) and a Platypus of red wine, we snuck into our tents ready for a chilly evening.

My home-made Golite quilt was very warm if I could keep my ass under cover. As a sleeping bag, it was rated at 0 degrees and it coped very well with the temperatures as a quilt, but I am a fidgety sleeper and every time I turned over, I got a cold bum. I have two options - abandon the quilt and use my Mountain Hardwear Phantom bag, or persevere with the quilt and hope it gets warmer (this weekend was freak weather, nights are back to 10 degrees now).

During the night, the cloud dropped and saturated everything (Pete got up for a pee at 4.30am and experienced the zero visibility), but when we emerged at 6.30am for a brew, the sun was burning the dew from the flysheets. Obviously, the Akto's suffered badly with condensation and a lot of mopping was required before we packed the tents up. Does anyone have a method of dealing with the Akto's evident condensation problem? We would all love to hear about it!

Once we had had breakfast and pulled some more water from a rather dubious water source (full of newts and therefore newt crap), we fiddled with the kit for a bit - fashioning a washing line from walking poles and spectra - packed up and were walking by about 10.30am... straight into a half hour climb along a spiky, rocky ridge (Garreg Glas - complete with limestone pavement and nosey red kites), that would not have looked out of place in Snowdonia.

The day's route took us across unpathed land, free styling through heather, bog and bilberry to the rim of Bannau Sir Gaer - one of the best views in south Wales (IMHO) and one of my most favourite places on earth. We dropped down to the bothy and then took the track past a fish farm and then a long tedious lane slog past Llandeusant YH to the Cross Inn for a couple of excellent pints before Jackie (Al's better half) picked us up.

I learnt a few lessons and quite a bit about the gear...

The Z55 was awesome with about 30lbs in it. The caldera cone stove boiled a pint of water, in wind, in 4 minutes with 12ml of fuel. The OMM chest pack was worth it's weight in gold and will come with me on the trip. We took too much food, at least the lunches were too big. The new inflatable Insulmats were worth the extra grams. I am going to take earplugs to keep the sheep's nocturnal activities at bay. The Road Angel was perfect for checking our position. I bought a new Canon Ixus 850 as I was jealous of Alan's tiny camera. Don't forget to put on sunscreen - very burnt nose. Dr Bronners is fine for washing your teeth. Take more baby wipes (Pampers unscented) for washing when you can't face an icy wash in newt crap. Pacer poles rock. Merino does stink. The Black Mountain is wild, beautiful and very moist underfoot - but the Salomon shoes and Smartwool socks combo drained and dried very quickly. Newt crap blocks water filters very quickly. My Montane windshirt is the most versatile garment I have ever owned. Both Al and Pete were very jealous of my Knirps X1 during showers, despite taking the pee.

Did I mention that Alan cheated? I'm not bitter ;)

This weekend, we are doing a dayhike from Llanddeusant to Llandovery, then we are on the trail for a week and I can't wait!

C2C days 4-5

We are going to spend and wet'n'windy weekend on the Black Mountain this weekend, knocking off two more days of the coast to coast. It's really a shake down of the kit (and us!).

Just checking the forecast and after weeks of balmy evenings, Saturday night is going to be 3 degrees, so our zero degree sleeping systems will be tested to the limits. A litre Platy full of a half decent red wine should solve that problem.

C2C is underway!

Dipping our feet in










Rhossili Bay

We started our section hike a couple of weeks ago. We'll be travelling from our home in Gower in south Wales to Conwy in north Wales, using the Cambrian Way from the Beacons.

We dipped our feet in at Worms head and then spent 3 days walking the Gower Way up to the edge of the Brecon Beacons. Pete joined us for day 2 and 3 and he will also be joining us for the last (and best) week. Next weekend we do our first overnighter, then one last day hike before we start the first of three weeks on the trail.

The gear is all sorted, the food is nearly all dried and all trains, hotels, hostels and camp sites booked. The only thing I am waiting for is some TNF underwear after they came top in a TGO test.

My base weight is around 22lb. Here are the major items I'm taking:

• Gregory Z55
• Akto
• Caldera Cone stove
  
• Vargo 1.3 ltr ti' pot
• Homemade GoLite quilt
• Insulmat Ether 6
• Montane Sportwool base layer
• Terra Converts
• Berghaus Infinity smock
• Berghaus Paclite smock
• Montane Atomic trousers
• Knirps X1 umbrella
• Salomon XA Comp 3's (Green Superfeet)
• Smartwool running light socks
• Pacerpoles
• e-lite
• MSR water filter
• Road Angel 7000
• Blackberry (in case I blog en-route)
• Loads of Granite Gear Air space/pockets/bags

Al and Pete's kit is pretty much the same except they are using Atmos's, sleeping bags rather than quilts and cooking on gas.

As I'm a veggie, I'll be cooking 100% FBC style as I can make some great food, dry it and have no washing up! The prep for the food has been an enormous task, but more about that next post.










Day 2 in Parc le Breos










Day 3 and the end of the Gower Way

C2C Route Planning

We have just about finalised our Welsh coast to coast route. I have painstakingly plotted the whole 25 days into Memory Map. We (Alan and I) plan to take it really easy with an average of 10 miles per day - more of a relaxed bimble rather than record breaking march.

We are section hiking the route a week at a time, with a week back in work in between each week. We start at Rhossili, right on the end of Gower and finish at Conwy Castle, taking in every major hill range on the way.

Stats: 242 miles, 387,200 steps, 56,019 feet of ascent and 56,204 of descent, about 18lb-20lb base weight.

The bulk of the walking will be done throughout June, finishing in North Wales with several pints on the 7th July.

BIG THANKS to Sarah and Jackie for letting us go - yes, we do know it's going to cost us dearly!